Gardening – Page 2 – Berries and Pie

Cherry Tomato Taste Test

On October 19, 2020

Do you enjoy trying new tomato varieties? I know I do! Each year I plant some new varieties as well as some old favorites. I only have room comfortably in my garden for two cherry tomato plants, but I bought some extra tomato plants this year and squeezed them in 🙂 Now they are producing more tomatoes than we can eat! Read on to learn my thoughts on this year’s crop.

Sugar Rush


My Rating	5/5 stars
Type	Indeterminate
Color	Red
Shape	Grape
Days to Maturity	50-55 days

Sugar Rush is a red grape tomato. I planted it last year and had to plant it again this year because I liked it so much! At only 50-55 days until maturity, Sugar Rush produces continually over a long season. The flavor is bright and sweet and the tomatoes have a firm texture that “pops” in your mouth.

My thoughts – Sugar Rush is a winner! I love how early these plants mature and the high yields they produce. I also appreciate the firmness of the tomatoes and how they pop in your mouth. This has been a dependable variety and I will probably plant it again next year!

Sun Sugar


My Rating	4/5 stars
Type	Indeterminate
Color	Orange
Shape	Cherry
Days to Maturity	62 days

Sunsugar is a pretty delicious tomato! The tomatoes have a good tartness that becomes super sweet as the fruit matures. The tomatoes are slightly softer than Sugar Rush and seem to have better crack resistance that Sungold, which is another popular orange cherry tomato. Like Sugar Rush, Sunsugar is ready early and produces high yields over a long season.

My thoughts – I love planting both orange and red tomatoes because they look so beautiful together. I really liked the bright flavor of Sunsugar but prefer slightly firmer tomatoes. I will probably try something else next year.

Bumblebee Sunrise


My Rating	4/5 stars
Type	Indeterminate
Color	Yellow with red stripes
Shape	Large cherry
Days to Maturity	68-70 days

Bumblebee Sunrise may be the most beautiful cherry tomato I’ve ever grown! The tomatoes are a deep golden color with striking red stripes. Bumblebee is slightly larger than the other cherry tomatoes and has an excellent tangy and sweet flavor. However, Bumblebee takes around 70 days to mature and the plant does not seem quite as productive as other varieties I planted this year.

My thoughts – I appreciate Bumblebee’s excellent flavor but productivity is important to me since I have limited space in my garden. It was good to try but I will probably plant a different variety next year. If you have plenty of space though this is definitely one to add to your list!

Blush


My Rating	5/5 stars
Type	Indeterminate
Color	Yellow with red stripes
Shape	Elongated cherry
Days to Maturity	75 days

Blush is one beautiful tomato! It features a pink blush over a golden yellow skin. The long oval shape of these tomatoes is rather unique and they are slightly larger than your typical cherry tomato. Blush tomatoes have a rather thick skin, and they remain firm and do not crack. Their flavor is sweet with a good tang. Blush is productive but took the longest to mature of the varieties I planted this year.

My thoughts – Despite the long maturity, Blush is the one that I would find myself snacking on more than any other tomato we planted this year. The flavor is outstanding and I appreciate their “two bite” size. I will definitely try to plant this one again next year!

Final Thoughts

All of these tomato varieties are delicious and would be an excellent addition to your garden. That being said, the best tomato variety for you depends what you are looking for. For me I prioritize yields as well as taste. Next year I will probably try the Blush tomato again because it surprised me how much I enjoyed it. However, since Blush takes some time to mature, I will probably plant Sugar Rush as well because it is early and dependable with great flavor.

Hope you get to try some of these varieties in your garden next year. Happy Gardening!

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How to Plant Garlic in the Fall

By Mandy

On October 10, 2020

In Gardening

The mornings are cool and the leaves are turning colors. Fall is here! And that means that it is the perfect time to plant garlic in your garden!

While garlic can be planted in the fall or the spring, I usually prefer to plant my garlic in the fall. This way it can develop a good strong root system over the winter. The garlic has a longer time to grow during cool weather which may lead to larger heads. Some people think that fall planted garlic also tastes better and has a more complex flavor.

A second reason why I usually plant my garlic in the fall is because I am usually planting garlic that I grew the previous season. By planting it in the fall so I will not have to store it as long, so the garlic is less likely to sprout early or have other issues during storage.

This post will explain the different types of garlic and how to plant it step-by-step. Let’s get started!

Related Post: Why Garden Planning Starts in September

This post may contain affiliate links, where I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. I only provide links to products that I use personally and recommend highly.

When to Plant Garlic

Garlic should be planted in the late fall before the ground freezes for the winter. October through early November is the ideal time. It is best to err on the side of starting it too late rather than too early because too much top growth could make it more susceptible to winter injury.

What Type of Garlic to Plant

Make sure that you purchase garlic from a seed company rather than the grocery store. Grocery store garlic may be sprayed with chemicals to prevent sprouting, and it is not guaranteed to be free of disease.

There are two main types of garlic to choose from: hardnecks and softnecks. We will go through the differences below.

Hardneck Garlic

Hardneck garlic has one row of cloves around a stiff woody stem. The cloves are generally larger and there are generally 6-8 cloves per head. Some people think the flavor of hardneck garlic is superior to other types. However, hardneck garlic may not keep as well as softneck types and it is generally less hardy in warmer climates.

Popular hardneck varieties include: Music, German Extra Hardy, Purple Italian, German Red, Purple Glazer, and Chesnok Red.

Softneck Garlic

This type of garlic has a few rows of cloves and does not have a central stem like the hardneck garlic. The cloves are generally smaller and there are around 10-20 cloves per head. Softneck garlic can be better in warmer climates and the heads keep for 9-12 months if stored properly.

Popular softneck varieties include: Inchelium Red, Italian Late, Silver White, and Blanco Piacenza.

What Type to Choose

What variety to plant is up to you! Personally I usually plant the hardneck types because the cloves are larger and easier to peel. But depending on where you live the softenecks or hardnecks may grow better. Try a few different varieties and see what you like!

How to Plant Garlic

Step 1: Select a Site

Garlic grows best in full sun. Choose a site that has loose, well drained soil and few weeds.

After I choose where I’m going to plant my garlic, I like to mark my rows with heavy cotton string (affiliate link) tied to popsicle sticks. This helps me to see the edges of the row so I plant my garlic in the correct place.

Step 2: Prepare the Soil

Garlic are heavy feeders but too much fertilizer at this point can make the plants more susceptible to winter damage. You can add a small amount of compost or fertilizer at planting time but this is not required.

If you do add fertilizer, choose one that is higher in phosphorus such as bone meal so it will help the garlic to get a good root system established. It is best to wait to add too much nitrogen until after growth starts in the spring.

Step 3: Dig a Hole

Garlic needs to be planted 3-4 inches deep. How you dig a hole for your garlic depends on how much you have to plant. If you don’t have many cloves to plant you can just dig a small individual hole for each clove and drop it in. If you are planting your garlic in rows, you can dig a long narrow trench.

I am planting a lot of garlic this year (about 80 cloves!) so I like to plant it in a wide row about 18-24 inches wide. Instead of digging individual holes, I use a rake to move all the soil off to the sides of the row. This way I can plant the garlic all at once.

Dig a hole for your garlic. Since I have so much garlic to plant I plant it in a wide row.

Step 4: Separate the Garlic into Cloves

Carefully separate the garlic heads into cloves right before planting. Each of these cloves will eventually grow into a whole head of garlic. Try to keep the skins intact because they will help protect the cloves.

Garlic cloves ready to plant. — Separate the garlic into cloves right before planting. Today I am planting three varieties of garlic: Duganski, Music, and German Red.

If you have more garlic than you need, select only the biggest cloves to plant and save the smaller ones for cooking. Larger cloves produce larger plants. You cannot get a big garlic plant from a puny clove!

Larger garlic cloves will produce larger plants. — Larger garlic cloves produce larger plants. After I have separated all of my garlic cloves, I select the biggest to plant. I will save the smaller cloves like the one on the right to use in the kitchen.

Step 5: Plant the Garlic

Plant the garlic cloves about 6 inches apart in all directions. Do not plant them closer than this because they will start to compete with each other for water and nutrients and not grow as big. Make sure the pointy ends of the cloves are facing upwards when you plant them.

When all the garlic cloves are placed cover them with soil. Gently pat the soil down with your hand and water the garlic lightly. Now wait for it to start growing!

Plant garlic in rows about 6 inches apart. — Plant the garlic 6 inches apart in all directions and then cover them with soil.

Early Care

Garlic shoots should emerge in a few weeks to a few months, depending on the temperature. Water lightly because garlic does not like heavy wet soils. The fall rains will likely keep it plenty wet, and too much moisture could cause the garlic to rot in the ground if there is poor drainage.

If you see green shoots appear you can add a few inches of mulch to help protect the plants against cold winter temperatures. Clean straw or leaves works well. You can pull the mulch away when the weather warms in the spring.

Add some mulch to help protect against cold winter temperatures. Clean straw or leaves works well.

Final Thoughts

There you have it! Now that you know how to plant garlic you will be rewarded with beautiful garlic plants next spring that will be ready around July. Happy Gardening!

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How to Make a DIY Sunflower Bird feeder

By Mandy

On October 4, 2020

In Gardening

I always have a row of sunflowers along the back fence in my garden. One of the joys of having sunflowers in your garden is watching the birds eat the sunflower seeds. We get pretty chickadees, blue stellar jays and yellow goldfinches. But sometimes I need to pull out the sunflowers (or they fall over!) before the birds are done eating all of the seeds. What to do? Cut off the seed heads and make a DIY sunflower bird feeder!

Bird on a sunflower birdfeeder. — Birds love these birdfeeders because it is easy for them to reach the seeds.

Birds like these sunflower bird feeders because they are are level and it is easy for them to reach the seeds. And since the sunflowers are hanging up off the ground few pests will bother them.

This DIY sunflower bird feeder is very easy to make and requires just a few materials. It also makes a nice gift to a friend who doesn’t have sunflowers in their garden. Let’s go through how to make a DIY sunflower bird feeder step-by-step.

This post may contain affiliate links, where I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases. I only provide links to products that I use personally and recommend highly.

Materials List

Sunflower heads and twine to make sunflower birdfeeders. — Twine and sunflower seed heads are all that you need to make these bird feeders.

Twine or Cotton String – You will use this to hang the sunflower seed heads. You will need four pieces of string for each bird feeder, each about 3 feet long. You may need to make these a little longer if you have an especially large seed head. I like to use this cotton twine and it works very well.

Sunflower Seed Heads – Larger seed heads will make it easier for the birds to land on. Make sure that the seed heads have mature seeds for the birds to eat.

How to Make a DIY Sunflower Bird Feeder

Step 1: Cut the Stems off the Sunflowers

Turn the sunflower seed head over and cut the stem 1-2 inches from the back of the sunflower head. It is best to leave it a little long rather than cut it too short so it is easier to tie the string in the next step.

Cut the stem off the back of the sunflower. — Cut the stem 1-2 inches from the back of the sunflower head.

Make sure you don’t make it so short so it is easier to tie the string to it in the next step.

Step 2: Tie the String to the Sunflower

Cut the string or twine into four pieces that are each about 3 feet long and gather them together neatly. Holding the ends of all the strings together, tie them tightly to the stem at the base of the sunflower head. Double knot this to make it strong.

Tie string to the sunflower stem. — Tie all of the strings to the stem of the sunflower head. Double knot this to make it strong.

Spread the strings out in a cross and then carefully turn the sunflower head over. Adjust the strings so they come out evenly around the edges of the sunflower. Now you are ready to knot the strings together on the front side!

Spread the strings out and then carefully turn the sunflower head over. Adjust them so they are even around the edges of the sunflower.

Step 3: Knot the Strings Together

Holding the sunflower level, tie all four strings together in a slip knot about a foot or two above the sunflower head. Do this loosely at first. If the sunflower is not level, loosen the knot and try again. The slip knot will make a nice loop to hang up your sunflower.

Holding the sunflower head level, tie a slip knot at the top. This will be used to hang up your birdfeeder.

Step 4: Hang the Sunflower Bird Feeder Outside!

Try to hang your bird feeder where it will not get super wet because this could cause the seeds to mold. You can hang it in a tree or on a hook somewhere in your yard.

Three sunflower birdfeeders hanging in the garden.

Have fun watching the birds this fall! Enjoy!

A chickadee bird eating seeds on a sunflower birdfeeder.

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How to Make a DIY Sunflower Bird Feeders

Are you removing your sunflowers before the birds are done with the seeds? Cut off the seed heads and make these cute DIY sunflower bird feeders! These also make great gifts to share with friends and family.

Active Time10

Total Time10

Author: Project by: Mandy

Materials

Sunflower Seed Heads
Twine or Cotton String
Scissors

Instructions

Turn the sunflower head over and cut the stem about 1-2 inches from the back of the sunflower head. It is best to leave it a little long rather than cut it too short so it is easier to tie the string in the next step.
Cut four pieces of string that are each 3 feet long and gather them together neatly. Holding the ends of all the strings together, tie them tightly to the stem at the base of the sunflower head. Double knot this to make it strong.
Spread the strings out in a cross and carefully turn the sunflower head over. Adjust the strings so they come out evenly around the edges of the sunflower.
Holding the sunflower head level, tie all four strings together in a slip knot about a foot or two above the sunflower head. Do this loosely at first. If the sunflower is not level, loosen the knot and try again.
Hang your sunflower bird feeder outside for the birds to find! Have fun!

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Garlic Review: Comparing Music, Duganski, and German Red

By Mandy

On September 25, 2020

In Gardening

My garlic adventure started two years ago when I planted a few cloves of Duganski garlic that I bought on a whim the store. Isn’t garlic all the same? I thought. Why am I bothering to grow my own?

Then I tried the homegrown Duganski garlic in my favorite garlic roasted green beans and I was hooked. The garlic was so much more flavorful than the generic white garlic at the grocery store! And it also had bigger cloves, which meant less peeling and prep work. Yay! I have been growing my own garlic ever since.

This spring I grabbed two more varieties to try: Music and German Red. I am excited to share my thoughts with you!

Garlic Varieties

All three varieties of garlic I planted this year are a type of hardneck garlic. This means that there is a single row of cloves around a hard, woody stem.

Hardneck garlic has a single layer of cloves around a hard woody stem. — Hardneck garlic varieties have a single layer of cloves around a hard, woody stem.

I prefer hardneck varieties because they generally have great flavor and larger cloves. There are few things I dislike more in the kitchen than peeling puny garlic cloves! Here is a summary of the three types I planted this year:

Music

Music is a porcelain type hardneck garlic and it has silvery white skins covering the cloves. The heads were larger than the other varieties I planted this year. The cloves are gigantic and each head has only 3-5 cloves.

Duganski

Duganski is a purple stripe variety and has very pretty outer skin. It has 8-9 cloves per head.

German Red

German Red is rocambole type hardneck garlic. The skin covering the cloves is a beautiful deep red color. It has 5-7 cloves per head.

Taste

All three garlic varieties have a great garlic flavor. When raw they all taste the same to me: super spicy! When cooked Music seemed the most mild tasting while Duganski and German Red retained a slightly stronger garlic flavor.

My Thoughts

I really like Music because it has such large cloves. However, I like the flavor of the Duganski and German Red slightly better, and Duganski is still my top choice for my garlic roasted green beans. Since I like variety, I will probably plant all three again next year!

How to Save Garlic for Planting

Make sure you save some of your garlic to plant in your garden next year! After you dig your garlic let it dry for at least a couple of weeks. Then cut the stems off a little ways above the bulb. Since I have three varieties of garlic, I use a Sharpie to label the different varieties right on the bulbs. Keep your garlic in a dry place until you are ready to plant it, either in the fall or in the spring. I place mine in a small paper lunch bag and keep it in the garage until October, when I plant it out in my garden. More information on planting garlic is coming soon!

Label your garlic to tell them apart. — Cut the stems a little above the bulbs. Use a permanent marker to label the different varieties.

Hope you get to try one of these garlic varieties in your garden next year. Do you have another favorite type of garlic? Let me know in the comments below! Happy Gardening!

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Extending the Harvest: How to Ripen Green Tomatoes Indoors

By Mandy

On September 20, 2020

In Gardening

Today was a sad day. This afternoon I took out the cherry tomato plants from our garden. For the next nine months we will have to get our tomatoes at the grocery store, which are a sorry comparison to the beautiful homegrown vine-ripened tomatoes we have been enjoying for the past few months.

Related: Cherry Tomato Taste Test

But there is a silver lining. I was able to save some of the green tomatoes to ripen inside over the next few weeks. Read on to learn how easy it is to ripen green tomatoes inside.

It is finally time to take out our cherry tomatoes. They grew huge this year and produced loads of tomatoes!

When to Pull Tomato Plants From Your Garden

It can be difficult to know when to finally remove tomato plants from your garden. Tomatoes like warm weather and they start ripening much more slowly in cooler weather. The bees are not as active to pollenate the flowers and production slows. While some people keep their tomatoes in the ground until frost, this may damage any tomatoes still on the plant. It is now taking several days to produce a single pint of ripe cherry tomatoes, so I decided it was finally time. Before I removed my tomato plants I picked off all of the immature fruit to ripen inside.

How to Ripen Green Tomatoes

Step 1: Pick the Tomatoes

When I pick cherry tomatoes I usually keep them on the vine and pick the whole cluster of tomatoes. I do this because it will take the tomatoes some time to ripen, and by leaving the stems on they are less likely to crack. Damaged and diseased fruit will rot which may spread to other tomatoes.

Green cherry tomatoes and red cherry tomatoes — Before removing tomato plants pick clusters of green tomatoes to ripen indoors.

Tomatoes that are off of the vine will not grow any larger, and ones that are too green will never really ripen properly. So look for tomatoes that have reached full size and may be showing a slight bit of color. These should ripen well inside.

Green cherry tomatoes held in hand — The tomatoes on the left are small and light green. They will probably never ripen properly. The tomatoes on the right are larger and showing a little color so they should ripen well indoors.

Step 2: Wash the Tomatoes and Let them Dry

Carefully rinse your tomatoes under running water. This removes dirt that cause spoilage. Spread the tomatoes out on a clean kitchen towel to dry completely before storing.

Green cherry tomatoes drying on a towel — Rinse the tomatoes and spread them out on a clean kitchen towel to dry.

Step 3: Store the Tomatoes

Select a container to store your tomatoes while they ripe. A box or basket lined with a few paper towels works well. Spread the tomatoes out so they get good air circulation. Store them inside your house (they like warmer temperatures) and they should ripen in a week or two. If you want them to ripen more slowly you can store them in your garage or another cool place. Make sure the temperature does not drop below 50 degrees for extended periods or so because this will halt ripening altogether.

Green cherry tomatoes in a basket — Store your tomatoes in a box or basket lined with paper towels. Spread them out so air can circulate.

Check on your tomatoes often and use them as they ripen. Remove any that start to go bad so rot does not spread to other tomatoes.

Final Thoughts

At least ripening tomatoes inside will prolong the season a little bit. Only nine months to go until fresh tomatoes again next year! I am already thinking of what varieties I want to plant 🙂

Hope you get to save some of your tomatoes to extend the season a bit. Happy Gardening!

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How to Overwinter Peas

By Mandy

On September 18, 2020

In Gardening

I always struggle to get peas started in the spring. The weather is warm enough to plant pea seeds in March or so but the soil is so wet the seeds often rot. Then I have to replant the peas and the snails eat them. Or the birds. Yes, birds. They pick at the tendrils and chop the leaves to pieces. It’s annoying. And it often kills the whole plant and I need to start over completely.

Now I have a new method for getting my peas started. I plant them in the fall and overwinter them. This solves many of my problems. Since the soil is not so wet the seeds get off to a good strong start. And by spring the plants are big enough to withstand a bird or snail here and there. Read on to learn how easy it is to overwinter peas for an earlier spring harvest.

Pea seed packets in the dirt. — Late September or October is a great time to plant peas to overwinter!

Pea Plant Hardiness

Peas are hardy down to about 20 degrees, and colder if covered with an insulating layer of snow. Overwintering peas will not work in all areas without additional protection but here in Oregon we rarely have temperatures cooler than this so this method works well.

Keep in mind though that once in awhile the weather will get cold enough to damage your pea plants. But the worst case scenario is that all of your plants die and you need to replant in the spring. While this is unfortunate, you are no further behind than you would have been otherwise.

When to Plant Peas for Overwintering

Peas should be planted in late September or October. The timing can be a little tricky because you want them to get established and grow to about a foot high before going dormant for the winter. They may look a little scraggly over the winter months but when the temperatures warm in the spring they will put on lush green growth!

How to Plant Peas for Overwintering

Step 1: Select a Site

Peas grow best in the cool temperatures of early spring. Choose a site that will be in full sun with good drainage.

Although peas do not grow very tall, they seem to do better with some type of support so the plants are not flopping on the ground. There are many types of trellises to choose from. I have a folding metal trellis that works great! Get this in place so you know where to plant your seeds.

Step 2: Prepare the Soil

Peas are light feeders. Since they are able to make their own nitrogen their need for extra fertilizer is low. You can add a small amount of compost or balanced fertilizer at planting time but this is not required. Fertilizing peas with too much nitrogen will cause big healthy plants but not many pea pods.

Step 3: Dig a Trench

Digging a trench with a trowel. — Start by digging a trench about one inch deep.

Start by digging a trench about 3-4 inches from the base of your trellis. The trench should be about 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep. Use the side of your hand to gently smooth the bottom of the trench so it is even.

Use your hand to gently smooth the bottom of the trench.

Step 4: Plant the Seeds

Plant your seeds about 2 inches apart and cover them with soil. Gently pat the soil down with your hand and water the seeds lightly. Now wait for them to start growing!

Planting pea seeds — Plant the pea seeds about 2 inches apart. Cover them with soil and pat down lightly.

Covering up pea seeds with dirt. — Plant the pea seeds about 2 inches apart. Cover them with soil and pat down lightly.

Early Care

Peas seedlings should emerge in about 1-2 weeks, depending on the temperature. Help them find the trellis when they get tall enough. Peas like to be a little crowded so there is no reason to thin the seedlings.

Pea seedlings. — Pea seedlings about 2 weeks after planting. Peas like to be a little crowded so there is no reason to thin the seedlings.

Water the seedlings lightly because peas do not like heavy wet soils. The fall rains will likely keep them plenty wet. Protect them from slugs and snails, especially when they are small so the snails do not kill the whole plant. If you do lose some plants you can poke a hole with your finger and add in a few more seeds.

When winter comes consider protecting and covering the seedlings if the weather gets below 25 degrees or so. If you have snow it will insulate the peas plants and protect them down to even lower temperatures. Make sure you uncover them as the weather warms because they will soon put on rapid growth!

Final Thoughts

There you have it! Now that you know how to overwinter peas you will be rewarded with strong and healthy plants and have peas well before your neighbors in the spring. Happy Gardening!

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Why Garden Planning Starts in September

By Mandy

On September 17, 2020

In Gardening

Our garden is starting to wind down for the year. The green beans are about done, and we just picked our pumpkins. So why am I already planning next year’s garden when this season has not yet finished?

Mandy's Garden 2021. Garden plan on graph paper with a pencil. — Garden planning starts in September!

The main reason why I do this is so I can overwinter some of my vegetables for bigger and earlier yields next spring. Planting vegetables such as peas and garlic in the fall allows them to start growing and get a good root system developed before going dormant over the winter. In the spring they start growing as soon as the weather warms and they have a big head start on the season!

In order to plant these crops, I need to know where to put them because they will affect my garden layout in the spring. Read on to learn more about which crops overwinter well and how to start planning your garden for next year.

Crops to Overwinter

Peas (including sweet pea flowers) and garlic are the two crops that I regularly plant in the fall.

Peas

The main advantage to starting peas in the fall is that you can get them growing earlier in the spring. Where I live in Oregon our late winter and early spring is usually very rainy. This makes it difficult to get seeds started because the soil is so wet that the seeds may rot. By planting peas in the fall, the plants will already be established so they can start growing as soon as the weather gets warm enough. Since peas grow best in cooler weather, you will get more peas before the hot weather comes and they stop producing.

For more information on planting fall peas click here.

Garlic

Garlic can be planted in the fall or in the spring. I have done both and gotten good results from each method. Since I am planting garlic that I grew the previous season, I prefer to plant it in the fall so I will not have to store it as long before putting it in the ground. This way the garlic is less likely to sprout early or have other issues during storage. Fall planted garlic can also be larger than garlic planted in the spring because it has more time to grow in cooler weather.

For more information on planting garlic click here.

Onions

Many people overwinter onions, which can help to produce larger bulbs. I have not done this yet but am eager to try! Maybe next year?

Start Planning Your Garden

A little planning can help your garden thrive. If you start with a good plan your garden will be much more productive!

I usually start by doing a rough sketch of my garden in the fall so I know where to plant these crops. While I don’t fill in all the details at this point but I have a rough idea of where I want them to go so I can get them in the ground! I usually fill in more information over the winter when I receive my seed catalogs in the mail.

A much more complete guide to garden planning is coming soon, so stay tuned!

Final Thoughts

Do I have you convinced yet? Hopefully you can try overwintering some of your vegetables for an early spring harvest. As always, Happy Gardening!

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How to Save Marigold Seeds

By Mandy

On September 11, 2020

In Gardening

Marigolds are wonderful flowers to include in your garden! They repel bugs, are easy to grow, are drought tolerant, and bloom continually over a long season. It is September now and my marigolds are about done blooming for the year. Read on to learn how easy it is to save marigold seeds for beautiful blooms year after year.

Marigold flower — Marigolds are an easy-to-grow garden favorite!

When to Harvest Marigold Seeds

Marigold seeds are ready to harvest as soon as the seed heads are fully dry, and this can happen as early as August. However, I usually wait until September or October to collect my seeds because a larger number of seed heads will have formed. Try to harvest the seed heads before the heavy fall rains arrive because wet seeds will not last as long.

Marigold seed head — Harvest the seeds when they the seed heads have fully dried and turned brown. Although the flower on the right is done blooming, the base is still green and the seeds are not yet ready to be picked.

How to Harvest Marigold Seeds

Collect the dry seed heads from your marigold plants and put them on a work surface. Be sure to look deep in the plant because some may be hiding among the leaves. Remove the dried petals and then carefully pull the seeds out of the seed head and place them in a small bowl. The bottom of the seeds should be hard and black. Discard any seeds that are soft or light colored because these are not fully mature and they will not germinate properly.

The seeds should be hard, black, and dry. The seeds on the right are not yet ready because they are a lighter color and not fully mature.

Spread your seeds out on a paper towel for a few days so they can dry. It is surprising how many seeds each plant can produce!

After you have collected all of your seeds spread them out on a paper towel and let them sit there for a few days so they can dry. After they have dried completely they will be ready for storage.

Seed Storage Tips

There is one thing that will ruin your marigold seeds and that is mold caused by too much moisture. I learned this the hard way a few years ago when I stored my seeds in a plastic zip-top bag when they were not fully dry. In the spring my seeds were a black moldy mess and completely ruined. It was so disappointing!

Now I recommend storing your seeds in a brown paper lunch bag after they are done drying on the paper towels. Since the paper bag can breathe, moisture can escape and the seeds will last longer. Fold the top of the bag down and seal it with a piece of tape. Store the seeds in a cool, dark, dry place until you are ready to plant them in the spring.

Paper bag of marigold seeds 2020 — Store your seeds in a sealed paper bag. Since the paper is breathable excess moisture can escape.

When to Plant Your Seeds

Marigolds are very easy to grow from seed. Plant them in mid-spring around March or April. In my experience, marigolds planted from seed are much more vigorous than those planted from transplants. If your marigolds last year were a hybrid variety, the plants that grow this year may or may not look exactly like the parent plants. Either way, they will add a bright and sunny pop of color to your garden!

Hope you get to enjoy these beautiful flowers in your garden again next year. Happy Gardening!

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How to Save Sweet Pea Seeds

By Mandy

On September 2, 2020

In Gardening

Sweet peas are a beautiful flower to have in your garden. They bloom early in the spring, produce flowers over a long season, and smell amazing! It is early September now and my sweet peas are finally done for the year. Read on to learn how easy it is to save your sweet pea seeds for beautiful blooms year after year.

Pink and red sweet pea flowers. — Sweet peas are a beautiful flower to grow in your garden!

When to Harvest Sweet Pea Seeds

Sweet peas seeds are ready to harvest when the pods are fully dry. For me this happens around late August to early September. The pods will turn brown and brittle and you may even be able to hear the seeds rattling around inside.

Brown seed pod held in hand. — Harvest sweet pea seeds when the pod is brown and dry.

Sweet pea seed pod held in hand — Harvest sweet pea seeds when the pod is brown and dry.

Make sure you harvest your sweet pea seeds as soon as most of the pods look ready. If you wait too long, the pod will split open and the seeds will scatter on the ground.

How to Harvest Sweet Pea Seeds

Collect the dry pods from the plant and place them on a work surface. With your fingers carefully open up each pod, remove the seeds, and drop them into a small bowl. The seeds should be large, hard, and dark brown or black in color. Discard any seeds that are soft or white because these are not fully mature and will not germinate properly.

Removing sweet pea seeds from seed pod. — Open the pods and empty the seeds in a bowl.

When to Plant Your Seeds

Your sweet pea seeds can either be planted in the late summer/early fall if you plan to overwinter them or they can be saved and planted the following spring. Since we rarely have harsh winters here in Oregon, I usually plant my seeds in mid to late September. The peas are able to grow about a foot tall before going dormant for the winter. In the spring they have a head start on the season and start blooming earlier.

Store Your Seeds

If you choose to store your sweet pea seeds keep them in an airtight container. This could be a zip top bag or a mason jar with a tight fitting lid. Keep them in a dark and cool place and plant them in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked.

Hope you get to include these beautiful flowers in your garden again next year. Happy Gardening!

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Freezing Cherry Tomatoes: An Easy Way to Preserve the Harvest

By Mandy

On August 31, 2020

In Gardening

Do you have more cherry tomatoes than you can eat? Are you wondering what you can do with them? Try freezing them to use later in the season! It is a real treat to make homemade soup in the wintertime with tomatoes from your summer garden!

I prefer freezing my cherry tomatoes over other preservation methods because it is so incredibly easy. There is no chopping, peeling, or canning involved! Now we will go through how simple this process is.

Too many cherry tomatoes? Try freezing them!

Prep the Tomatoes

First off, you need to sort through your tomatoes and discard any that are cracked or blemished because they will not keep as well. Prep the tomatoes by taking off the stems and washing them thoroughly.

Taking the stems off cherry tomatoes and placing them in a colander. — Take the stems off of the tomatoes and wash them thoroughly.

After they are washed get as much water off as you can. You can drain them well in a colander or spread them out on a clean kitchen towel. This is important because they may stick to your pan or stick together if too much water is present.

Orange and red cherry tomatoes on a sheet pan. — Spread the dry tomatoes out on a large sheet pan. Try to leave some space between them if possible.

When they are dry spread the tomatoes out onto a large sheet pan. We want to freeze them before putting them into bags for long term storage. The advantage of this method is that the tomatoes are less likely to get squished or stick together in a giant tomato ice block. Try to leave some space between them on the pan and do not crowd them if possible. This way they will freeze faster and are less likely to get stuck together.

Freeze the Tomatoes

Place the sheet pan in the freezer for at least 1-2 hours, or until the tomatoes have firmed up.

Once frozen, the tomatoes are ready to be placed into freezer bags. Be sure to label the bags with the date.

After the tomatoes are frozen, you should be able to easily gather them up and place them in freezer bags. Freezer bags are preferable to regular zip top bags because they are thicker and will help protect the food better. Labeling the bags before you fill them will make it easier to write on them. Make sure that you also write the date on the bag.

Two bags of orange and red cherry tomatoes. — Cherry tomatoes will last for up to a year in the freezer.

Store the tomatoes in the freezer for 6 months or up to a year or so. After that time they will still be safe to eat but the quality may begin to decline.

How to Use Frozen Cherry Tomatoes

Realize that frozen cherry tomatoes will have a different texture than fresh tomatoes. They will be softer and are best used in cooked dishes such as soups, sauces, or casseroles. These tomatoes will also have their skins on which may affect the texture of some dishes. For most recipes however this is not an issue.

My favorite way to use these frozen cherry tomatoes is in homemade vegetable soup. I use them straight out of the bag and pour however many I need into the boiling soup as it cooks. Yum!

Hope you are able to freeze some of your tomatoes to enjoy in the winter months. Happy Gardening!

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Category: Gardening Page 2 of 3

Sugar Rush

Sun Sugar

Bumblebee Sunrise

Blush

Final Thoughts

When to Plant Garlic

What Type of Garlic to Plant

Hardneck Garlic

Softneck Garlic

What Type to Choose

How to Plant Garlic

Step 1: Select a Site

Step 2: Prepare the Soil

Step 3: Dig a Hole

Step 4: Separate the Garlic into Cloves

Step 5: Plant the Garlic

Early Care

Final Thoughts

Materials List

How to Make a DIY Sunflower Bird Feeder

Step 1: Cut the Stems off the Sunflowers

Step 2: Tie the String to the Sunflower

Step 3: Knot the Strings Together

Step 4: Hang the Sunflower Bird Feeder Outside!

How to Make a DIY Sunflower Bird Feeders

Materials

Instructions

Garlic Varieties

Music

Duganski

German Red

Taste

My Thoughts

How to Save Garlic for Planting

When to Pull Tomato Plants From Your Garden

How to Ripen Green Tomatoes

Step 1: Pick the Tomatoes

Step 2: Wash the Tomatoes and Let them Dry

Step 3: Store the Tomatoes

Final Thoughts

Pea Plant Hardiness

When to Plant Peas for Overwintering

How to Plant Peas for Overwintering

Step 1: Select a Site

Step 2: Prepare the Soil

Step 3: Dig a Trench

Step 4: Plant the Seeds

Early Care

Final Thoughts

Crops to Overwinter

Peas

Garlic

Onions

Start Planning Your Garden

Final Thoughts

When to Harvest Marigold Seeds

How to Harvest Marigold Seeds

Seed Storage Tips

When to Plant Your Seeds

When to Harvest Sweet Pea Seeds

How to Harvest Sweet Pea Seeds

When to Plant Your Seeds

Store Your Seeds

Prep the Tomatoes

Freeze the Tomatoes

How to Use Frozen Cherry Tomatoes

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